Photo: waa towaw / UnsplashImage

RENT & RIDE JAPANNikko, Tochigi — Kirifuri Highland, Upper Kinugawa & Kawaji Onsen

Kirifuri Highland & Kawaji Onsen Autumn Journey

Ride the autumn curves of Kirifuri Highland and overnight at Kawaji Onsen in the upper Kinugawa valley, then return via the historic Nikko Kaido highway on this two-day hot-spring tour.

OnsenMountain PassNature
DISTANCE
360 km
DURATION
20 h
LEVEL
Intermediate
DIST360 kmTIME20 hLVLIntermediateSEASONAutumnIN SEASON!OnsenMountain PassNature

Starting from Tashilog Garage, this two-day ride links one of Tochigi's finest mountain roads — the Kirifuri Highland Road — with the quiet hot-spring hamlet of Kawaji Onsen, nestled in the gorge where the Kinugawa and Ojika rivers meet. Late October to early November, at the peak of the autumn foliage, is the best season, letting you enjoy exhilarating highland curves, a riverside hot spring, and the stillness of a misty spa town all in one trip.

Highlights

  • Kirifuri Highland Road: A 16–18 km highland winding road climbing the slopes of Mt. Akanagi, with continuous compound corners and spectacular autumn colors.
  • Roppozawa Bridge: A sweeping arch bridge roughly 320 m long and 130 m high, offering a vast panorama.
  • Osasa Farm: A highland ranch at about 1,030 m elevation, famous for its Genghis Khan (grilled lamb) lunch.
  • Kawaji Onsen: A hot-spring resort in the upper Kinugawa gorge, a healing spa since the Edo period.

Riding Tips

The Kirifuri Highland Road is prone to fog and damp pavement, so check the weather and keep your speed moderate. Weekends during the foliage season get busy, so set off early.

ROUTE MAP
Itinerary
  1. Day 1
  2. 1
    START

    Tashilog Garage

    Start point. Depart early and head toward the expressways leading to Nikko.

    TIPS

    Fuel up and check tire pressure before leaving. Much of the ride is on highways, so dress warmly.

  3. 2
    VIEW~40 min

    Kirifuri Falls

    One of Nikko's three great waterfalls, a two-tiered cascade on the Kirifuri River viewed from an observation deck.

    HISTORY

    Counted among Nikko's three famous waterfalls alongside Kegon and Urami Falls. The upper tier drops about 25 m and the lower about 26 m, framed by old-growth forest that turns crimson and gold in late October.

    TIPS

    A long stairway leads down to the viewing platform, so wear comfortable shoes. Go early on foliage-season weekends to avoid crowds.

    Open in Google Maps
  4. 3
    VIEW~25 min

    Roppozawa Bridge

    A scenic highlight of the Kirifuri Highland Road, a great arch bridge spanning a deep valley.

    TIPS

    The arch is roughly 320 m long and 130 m high. Fog is common at this elevation, so pause for the view on clear days. A parking area is a short distance downhill.

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  5. 4
    FOOD~70 min

    Osasa Farm Resthouse

    A highland ranch resthouse near the end of the Kirifuri Highland Road, famous for its Genghis Khan lamb lunch.

    TIPS

    Known for thick-cut lamb Genghis Khan and Brown Swiss milk and soft-serve. Lighter dishes like Nikko yuba (tofu skin) udon and soba are also available. Open roughly 8:45–16:45 (shorter in winter); TEL 0288-97-1116. A popular gathering spot for riders.

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  6. 5
    VIEW~45 min

    Ryuokyo Gorge

    A gorge on the upper Kinugawa River, where volcanic rock carved by the water contrasts beautifully with autumn foliage.

    TIPS

    Just before Kawaji Onsen, with a walking trail along the gorge. Park and take a short stroll to Nijimi Falls. A perfect stop before check-in.

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  7. 6
    LODGING

    Kawaji Onsen Yukemuri-no-Sato Kashiwaya

    Overnight stop for day 1. A long-established ryokan set in the gorge of the Kinugawa and Ojika rivers.

    HISTORY

    A historic ryokan founded in 1926. Kawaji Onsen was a healing spa on the old route linking Edo and Aizu, long praised for the restorative qualities of its waters.

    TIPS

    Famous for its open-air baths overlooking the Ojika River. Please confirm motorcycle parking and room type when booking. Reserve early during the foliage season.

    Kawaji Onsen Yukemuri-no-Sato Kashiwaya
    Photo: Abasaa / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
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  8. Day 2
  9. 7
    ONSEN~40 min

    Kawaji Onsen Yakushi-no-Yu

    A riverside public bath and footbath area worth a morning visit before departing on day 2.

    TIPS

    A public bath along the Ojika River gorge. Soak in the quiet of the misty morning spa town before setting off. Hours vary by season, so check in advance.

    Kawaji Onsen Yakushi-no-Yu
    Photo: 妖精書士 (talk) / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
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  10. 8
    FOOD~50 min

    Michi-no-Eki Nikko (Nikko Kaido Niko-Niko Honjin)

    A roadside station in the Imaichi area along the Nikko Kaido highway, ideal for a rest and local food.

    TIPS

    Head south along the Kinugawa to Imaichi. Offers Nikko specialties like yuba, plus light meals and souvenirs. A good final rest and resupply before the ride home, with ample parking.

    Michi-no-Eki Nikko (Nikko Kaido Niko-Niko Honjin)
    Image
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  11. 9
    SPOT~25 min

    Nikko Cedar Avenue (Imaichi)

    A majestic avenue of cedars lining the Nikko Kaido, designated a Special Historic Site and Special Natural Monument.

    HISTORY

    Formed by cedars planted in the Edo period, this long avenue is designated both a Special Historic Site and a Special Natural Monument — a rare and venerable highway landscape.

    TIPS

    The avenue is narrow with traffic, so ride slowly. Soak up the historic highway atmosphere as you leave Imaichi for the return leg.

    Nikko Cedar Avenue (Imaichi)
    Photo: Kusakabe Kimbei / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain
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  12. 10
    GOAL

    Tashilog Garage

    Return. Join the expressway at Imaichi IC and head back to Hachioji.

    TIPS

    The return is mostly expressway, roughly 3.5 hours. It gets cold after sunset, so plan to arrive before dark.

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