RENT & RIDE JAPANOku-Aizu, Fukushima (Yanaizu & Kaneyama)
Oku-Aizu Secret Hot Springs
Nishiyama & Tamanashi
A two-day ride from Hachioji via the Tohoku and Ban-etsu Expressways into Oku-Aizu, staying at a secluded Nishiyama Onsen ryokan and soaking in the rustic public baths of Tamanashi and Hatchō along the tributaries of the Tadami River.
- DISTANCE
- 760 km
- DURATION
- 20 h
- LEVEL
- Advanced
Oku-Aizu is one of the most remote hot-spring regions within reach of the Tokyo area. This two-day tour links the small public bathhouses and old cure-inns scattered along the Tadami River and its tributaries, framed by the last of the autumn foliage in the gorges.
Highlights
- Nishiyama Onsen, opened in 717: Known as the "Kami-no-Yu" (Bath of the Gods) with eight separate springs. You stay at a riverside hidden-spring ryokan with free-flowing hot-spring water.
- Riverside public baths: The Tamanashi and Hatchō baths in Kaneyama retain the atmosphere of old timber bath-huts, offering bicarbonate springs at a very low price.
- Yanaizu's local specialty: The local style of sauce-katsudon served over a thin omelet.
Riding tips
Routes 252 and 400 wind along the Tadami and Nojiri rivers. In late autumn to early winter, watch for possible icy patches and early sunset, and avoid night riding. Some public baths have no parking lot, so be considerate about where you park your bike.
- Day 1
- 1START
Tashilog Garage
Start point
TIPSFuel up and check tire pressure, then leave early. Head via the Ken-O, Tohoku and Ban-etsu Expressways toward Aizu-Bange IC.
- 2FOOD~60 min
Suzuya Shokudo (Yanaizu Sauce-Katsudon)
From Aizu-Bange IC, ride Route 252 to Yanaizu for a lunch of the local sauce-katsudon.
TIPSFounded in 1957, famous for the local sauce-katsudon served over a thin omelet. Open roughly 11:00–14:00, closed on days ending in 7; parking is very limited.
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Image - 3SPOT~40 min
Fukuman Kokuzoson Enzoji Temple
An ancient temple perched on a cliff above the Tadami River, the birthplace of the Akabeko (red cow) legend.
HISTORYCounted among Japan's three great Kokuzo temples, this historic temple is the symbol of riverside Yanaizu and is known as the origin of the Akabeko papier-mache lucky cow.
TIPSThe view of the Tadami River and autumn colors from the main hall terrace is superb. There are many stone steps, so leave your helmet at the parking area.
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Photo: BehBeh / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0 - 4ONSEN~50 min
Tamanashi Onsen Public Bath
Continue on Routes 252 and 400 into Kaneyama, soaking in a rustic riverside public bath of bicarbonate spring water.
TIPSA hot, generously flowing bicarbonate spring of about 45.9°C (roughly 200 L/min). Open 9:00–21:00, 200 yen for adults. The bath itself has no parking, so use the lot on the Ebisuya ryokan side across the bridge with care.
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Image - 5LODGING~900 min
Aizu Nishiyama Onsen Taki-no-Yu
Backtrack toward Yanaizu and climb the mountain road to your hidden-spring inn at Nishiyama Onsen.
HISTORYFounded in 1899 and a member of the Japan Secret Hot Spring Inns association, this long-established ryokan draws two springs, Taki-no-Yu and Ara-yu, from across the Takiya River, preserving the air of an old healing retreat.
TIPSSeasonal operation (roughly late March to mid-December), so confirm dates in advance. Free-flowing spring water; the mixed open-air bath has women-only hours. Please confirm motorcycle parking and room type when booking.
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Image - Day 2
- 6ONSEN~60 min
Nishiyama Onsen Seizanso
On the second morning, enjoy an early bath at this town-run day-use spa set slightly apart from the hot-spring hamlet.
TIPSA town-run day-use bathhouse with a large indoor bath and a garden open-air bath. Its remote location means it is rarely crowded. The access road is a narrow mountain lane, so watch for wet surfaces.
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Image - 7FOOD~70 min
Michi-no-Eki Oku-Aizu Kaneyama (Kobushikan)
Ride Route 252 back into Kaneyama for a lunch of local dishes with views of the Tadami River.
TIPSPopular dishes include Takato soba with spicy grated azaki radish and simmered katsudon. The diner runs roughly 11:00–15:00 and the shop/snack counter 9:00–17:00 (hours vary—please confirm). Good local-product selection too.
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Image - 8ONSEN~40 min
Hatcho Onsen Public Bath Kame-no-Yu
A final soak at an old-fashioned mixed-bathing hut on the Nojiri River, across from Tamanashi.
TIPSA rustic mixed-bathing public bath managed by the local Tamanashi-Hatcho spring cooperative. Open 24 hours with a donation-based fee. No parking lot, so be considerate when leaving your bike. A nice short soak before the ride home.
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Image - 9GOAL
Tashilog Garage
Return
TIPSFrom Aizu-Bange IC, return via the Ban-etsu, Tohoku and Ken-O Expressways to Hachioji. As sunset comes early, aim to leave the area by around 14:00.