RENT & RIDE JAPANTochigi / Upper Nakagawa / Bato / Karasuyama
Nakagawa Castle Town & Washi Village Ride
A one-day culture loop tracing the Nakagawa river's rural hills to the Edo-era castle town of Karasuyama and the washi-paper heartland near Bato, blending golden rice fields with the gorge of Ryumon Falls.
- DISTANCE
- 380 km
- DURATION
- 11 h
- LEVEL
- Intermediate
Starting from TASHILOG GARAGE in Hachioji, this one-day loop explores the culture of eastern Tochigi along the upper Nakagawa River. It links the Edo-era castle town of Karasuyama, once ruled by the Okubo clan, with a washi-paper village carrying 1,200 years of tradition, threading together rural rice-field scenery and a dramatic river gorge.
Highlights
- Karasuyama Castle Ruins: a nationally designated historic mountain castle on Mt. Hakko (206 m), where dry moats, earthworks and stone walls still remain.
- Washi no Sato (Fukuda Paper Mill): the town's only hand-papermaking workshop, home of the celebrated Hodomura-shi Karasuyama washi.
- Ryumon Falls: a powerful cascade 65 m wide and 20 m high, named for a legendary giant serpent.
In early autumn, rice ears sway along the Nakagawa and mingle with the sound of the gorge, making for a memorable ride. The curves are gentle, so the route suits beginner-to-intermediate riders.
- 1START
Tashilog Garage
Start point (Hachioji)
TIPSAn early start is recommended. Heading via the Ken-O and Kita-Kanto expressways into eastern Tochigi is the most efficient route.
- 2VIEW~30 min
Ryumon Falls
A grand waterfall on the Egawa, a tributary of the Nakagawa
HISTORYThis 65 m-wide, 20 m-high cascade on the Egawa is named after a legend that a giant serpent once dwelt here.
TIPSYou can walk close to the base to feel the spray up close. It is about a 5-minute walk from Taki Station on the JR Karasuyama Line.
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Photo: JKT-c / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0 - 3SPOT~50 min
Karasuyama Castle Ruins
Nationally designated historic mountain castle
HISTORYBuilt in 1418 by Sukeshige Sawamura of the Nasu clan on Mt. Hakko (206 m). From 1725 the Okubo clan held it for eight generations over some 140 years until it was abolished with the 1869 return of lands to the emperor. Its resemblance to a resting ox earned it the nickname 'Gagyu Castle.'
TIPSDry moats, earthworks and stone walls survive well. It is about a 30-minute walk from the Nanamagari entrance to the old keep; sturdy shoes are advisable.
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Photo: Abasaa / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain - 4FOOD~60 min
Shogetsuan Soba
Long-established hand-cut soba restaurant in Karasuyama (lunch)
TIPSFamous for authentic hand-cut soba by an owner trained under the master Kunihiro Takahashi. The soba-and-tempura-rice set is popular, and the interior features local Karasuyama washi. Please confirm hours and closing days in advance.
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Image - 5SPOT~40 min
Karasuyama Washi Hall
Karasuyama washi exhibition and shop (former Karasuyama Hospital)
HISTORYHoused in the former Karasuyama Hospital, a 1923 pseudo-Western wood-and-mortar building. Karasuyama washi is said to date back some 800 years, when the Nasu clan invited papermakers from Echizen; its flagship Hodomura-shi is hailed as a 'treasure among thick papers.'
TIPSBesides paper products for sale, you can learn about the history of Karasuyama washi. Hand-papermaking sessions require a reservation.
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Photo: Abasaa / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain - 6SPOT~45 min
Washi no Sato (Fukuda Paper Mill)
The town's only hand-papermaking workshop
HISTORYSet in the hills of Oharazawa, this is the town's only papermaking studio. Using top-grade Nasu kozo, it continues to craft the thick, durable Hodomura-shi by traditional hand-scooping; the paper is recognized as an intangible cultural property by the Agency for Cultural Affairs.
TIPSWorkshop viewing and papermaking experiences are offered (postcard sessions require two or more people and a reservation). Live papermaking is mainly on weekdays, so call ahead to confirm.
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Image - 7GOAL
Tashilog Garage
Return (Hachioji)
TIPSThe Kita-Kanto and Ken-O expressways make for a comfortable return. Prepare warm gear and check your fuel for highway riding after sunset.