RENT & RIDE JAPANNorthern Kiso-ji (Niekawa–Yabuhara–Torii Pass–Narai)
Kiso-ji North: Torii Pass & Narai-juku Culture Day
A day trip from Hachioji to the northern Kiso-ji on the old Nakasendō. Ride from Niekawa-juku up to Yabuhara, cross historic Torii Pass, and reach the beautifully preserved post town of Narai-juku.
- DISTANCE
- 360 km
- DURATION
- 11 h
- LEVEL
- Intermediate
"The Kiso Road is all in the mountains"—so begins Tōson Shimazaki's famous novel set on this stretch of the old Nakasendō highway. This one-day culture ride departs from TASHILOG GARAGE in Hachioji, heading via the Chūō Expressway and Route 19 to the northern gateway of the Kiso Valley, where late-autumn colors set the historic post towns aglow.
Highlights
- Niekawa-juku & Niekawa Barrier: The northernmost of the eleven Kiso post towns and the gateway to the Kiso Road, with a reconstructed checkpoint and the nationally designated Fukazawa Family House.
- Yabuhara-juku: Roughly the midpoint of the 69 Nakasendō stations, famous for its traditional "Oroku" boxwood combs.
- Torii Pass: Linking Yabuhara and Narai, this was one of the toughest stretches of the entire Kiso Road.
- Narai-juku: A one-kilometer run of Edo-era townscape known as "Narai of a Thousand Houses," celebrated for its Kiso lacquerware.
Riding Notes
The route follows the well-paved Route 19 for most of the way, but late-autumn mornings and evenings in the Kiso Valley are cold, with a risk of icy pavement. Dress warmly and start early. The Torii Pass trail itself is a walking route, so riders loop around to Narai by road and enjoy the atmosphere at the trailhead.
- 1START
Tashilog Garage
Start point. Gear up for cold weather and depart early.
TIPSThe Kiso Valley gets cold; departing around 6–7 a.m. is recommended.
- 2SPOT~30 min
Niekawa Barrier (Niekawa-juku)
The reconstructed checkpoint marking the northern gateway to the Kiso Road and its post town.
HISTORYThe Niekawa Barrier was established in the era of Toyotomi Hideyoshi to monitor the valuable Kiso timber, later serving as a sub-barrier to the Fukushima checkpoint after the Battle of Sekigahara. Today it is reconstructed as a museum.
TIPSOpen in Google MapsThere is no dedicated parking; the nearby JR Niekawa Station lot is suggested. The nationally designated Fukazawa Family House stands within the post town (exterior viewing).
- 3SPOT~25 min
Yabuhara-juku
Roughly the midpoint of the 69 Nakasendō stations, a post town famous for its Oroku boxwood combs.
HISTORYIn the Edo period, Yabuhara prospered alongside Narai across Torii Pass as a center of Oroku comb production. In 1861, Princess Kazunomiya lodged here on her way to marry the shogun Iemochi, crossing Torii Pass the next day.
TIPSLook for shops and exhibits related to the traditional Oroku combs. A good place to rest before the pass.
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Photo: Keisai Eisen / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain - 4VIEW~20 min
Torii Pass (Yabuhara Trailhead)
The trailhead of the pass linking Yabuhara and Narai, long considered one of the toughest sections of the Kiso Road.
HISTORYTorii Pass rises to about 1,197 m between Yabuhara and Narai and was one of the most feared stretches of the Nakasendō. Today part of its stone-paved old road is restored, lined with stone Buddhas linked to the poet Bashō and the Japan Heritage chestnut grove, making it a popular 'Samurai Road.'
TIPSOpen in Google MapsThe pass crossing itself is a walking trail. Enjoy the atmosphere at the trailhead, then loop to Narai via Route 19 by bike.
- 5FOOD~60 min
Echigoya (Narai-juku)
A long-standing eatery in Narai-juku serving soba and gohei-mochi—local Kiso fare—for lunch.
TIPSOpen in Google MapsA soba house also serving gohei-mochi, oyaki, and dango. Hours roughly 9:00–18:00 with irregular closures—please confirm. The Echigoya set meal is popular.
- 6SPOT~70 min
Narai-juku
A one-kilometer stretch of Edo-era townscape known as 'Narai of a Thousand Houses,' home of Kiso lacquerware.
HISTORYNarai flourished at the foot of Torii Pass, once so prosperous it was called 'Narai of a Thousand Houses.' Nationally designated treasures such as the Tezuka Family House (Kami-Toiya Museum) survive, and the town is renowned for Kiso lacquerware, with its latticed facades framed by autumn color in late fall.
TIPSStroll the street lined with lacquerware shops and sweet stalls. Try Narai's distinctive round gohei-mochi while walking.
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Photo: tsushima / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0 - 7VIEW~20 min
Michi-no-Eki Narai Kiso-no-Ohashi
A rest stop marked by the Kiso-no-Ohashi, a grand cypress arched bridge over the Narai River.
TIPSIdeal for a restroom break before the return. The all-cypress arched bridge makes a great photo spot.
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Photo: アップロード者に同じ / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain - 8GOAL
Tashilog Garage
Return via Route 19 and the Chūō Expressway to Hachioji. Stay warm after dark.
TIPSReturn from Shiojiri IC onto the Chūō Expressway; leave early to avoid traffic.