RENT & RIDE JAPANOshu Kaido, Shirakawa & Naka River
Oshu Kaido & Shirakawa Barrier Culture Tour
A two-day culture ride from Hachioji up the Tohoku Expressway to the ancient Shirakawa Barrier, Japan's oldest public park, and Komine Castle, returning along the Naka River valley through the northern edge of the Kanto region.
- DISTANCE
- 620 km
- DURATION
- 20 h
- LEVEL
- Intermediate
Starting from TASHILOG GARAGE in Hachioji, this two-day ride follows the culture of the Oshu Kaido, historically regarded as the gateway to Michinoku (the Tohoku region). You ride north on the Tohoku Expressway to Shirakawa, then explore the ancient Shirakawa Barrier, long celebrated in classical poetry, and sites connected to feudal lord Matsudaira Sadanobu.
Day 1 Highlights
- The Shirakawa Barrier, one of the three great ancient checkpoints of Oshu, crossed by the poet Basho
- A stroll around Nanko Park, said to be Japan's oldest public park
- A bowl of the original Shirakawa ramen at Tora Shokudo
Day 2 Highlights
- Komine Castle with its beautifully reconstructed wooden three-story turret
- A relaxed cruise south along the Naka River valley through the countryside of the northern Kanto edge
As the focus is on historic roads and sites rather than tight twisties, a comfortable tourer or cruiser suits this route best.
- Day 1
- 1START
Tashilog Garage
Start point. Head toward the Tohoku Expressway from Hachioji.
TIPSAn early start is recommended for the long distance. Check fuel and tire pressure before departing.
- 2SPOT~50 min
Shirakawa Barrier Site
An ancient checkpoint set on the Tosando route during the Nara and Heian periods. A nationally designated historic site.
HISTORYOne of the three great ancient barriers of Oshu, alongside Nezugaseki and Nakoso. After the decline of the ritsuryo system it became a celebrated place in classical poetry, admired by court poets such as Noin, Saigyo and Matsuo Basho. Lord Matsudaira Sadanobu identified this spot as the barrier site in 1800 and erected a commemorative stone.
TIPSThe grounds hold Shirakawa Shrine and giant cedars said to be around 800 years old. Allow 40–60 minutes for a stroll.
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Photo: dogpochi / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.5 - 3FOOD~60 min
Tora Shokudo
A nationally famous restaurant regarded as the origin of Shirakawa ramen, known for its hand-pulled flat curly noodles.
TIPSSignature dishes are the hand-pulled ramen and wonton noodles in a clear chicken-and-pork soy broth. Expect a queue around lunchtime, so allow extra time. Please confirm hours and closing days in advance.
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Photo: くろふね / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0 - 4VIEW~60 min
Nanko Park
A park said to be Japan's oldest, created in 1801 by lord Matsudaira Sadanobu. A nationally designated historic site and place of scenic beauty.
HISTORYIt was created under the ideal of shimin-kyoraku, a place where people of all classes could relax together. The grounds include Nanko Shrine dedicated to Sadanobu, the Suirakuen Japanese garden, and the Kyorakutei teahouse, with lovely lakeside views of the Nasu mountains through the seasons.
TIPSThe lake loop is about 2.4 km and easy to walk. Nanko dango dumplings are a local specialty at the lakeside teahouses. Suirakuen garden is open 9:00–17:00 (until 16:30 in winter).
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Photo: TANAKA Juuyoh (田中十洋) / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0 - 5LODGING~720 min
Hotel Sunroute Shirakawa
A hotel in central Shirakawa, convenient as a base for the next day's Komine Castle visit and the Naka River route.
TIPSPlease confirm motorcycle parking availability when booking. Also check room types and breakfast options in advance. Its central location makes it easy to enjoy Shirakawa's local food in the evening.
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Image - Day 2
- 6SPOT~50 min
Komine Castle Site
A castle site cherished as the symbol of Shirakawa, featuring a faithfully reconstructed wooden three-story turret.
HISTORYIts origins trace to a fortress built by Yuki Chikatomo in the 14th century, and in the Edo period it served as the seat of 21 lords from seven houses, including Niwa Nagashige and Matsudaira Sadanobu. Partly burned in the Boshin War, the three-story turret and front gate were faithfully rebuilt in wood based on old drawings, and its stone walls, collapsed in the 2011 earthquake, were restored over about five years.
TIPSJust steps from Shirakawa Station. Allow 40–60 minutes to explore. Cherry blossoms in spring and autumn foliage are especially beautiful.
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Photo: No machine-readable author provided. Kinori assumed (based on copyright claims). / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain - 7FOOD~60 min
Michi-no-Eki Tosando Iouno
A roadside station in Nasu Town, a rest and lunch stop while heading south along the Naka River valley.
TIPSKnown for hand-made soba using locally milled buckwheat from its large waterwheel. Hours and soba serving times vary by season, so check in advance. A great rest stop for riders.
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Photo: Filler / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 3.0 - 8VIEW~30 min
Naka River Prefectural Road (Kurobane area)
A pleasant southbound stretch along the Naka River, enjoying the countryside and riverside scenery of the northern Kanto edge.
TIPSKurobane is known as a place where Basho stayed at length during his Narrow Road to the Deep North journey. Traffic flows well with few signals, but keep speeds modest through villages.
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Image - 9GOAL
Tashilog Garage
Return. Head back to Hachioji via the Tohoku and Ken-O expressways.
TIPSThe return is mostly highway and long, so take frequent breaks and pace yourself.