RENT & RIDE JAPANGunma: Usui Pass to Annaka & Isobe Onsen
Usui Pass to Isobe Onsen Ride
An autumn day trip over the winding Usui Pass, an old Nakasendo highway obstacle, to Isobe Onsen — the birthplace of Japan's oldest hot-spring symbol. Enjoy the brick Megane Bridge and sweeping mountain views along the way.
- DISTANCE
- 260 km
- DURATION
- 10 h
- LEVEL
- Intermediate
Starting from Tashilog Garage in Hachioji, this autumn day trip heads for Annaka City in Gunma. You'll climb the winding Usui Pass — a famous obstacle on the old Nakasendo highway — and reach Isobe Onsen, celebrated as the birthplace of Japan's oldest hot-spring symbol (♨). It's a rewarding mix of twisty riding and history.
Highlights
- Usui Pass switchbacks — a satisfying mountain road with countless curves, framed by brilliant foliage in autumn.
- Megane Bridge (Usui Third Bridge) — a four-arch brick railway bridge completed in 1893 and designated an Important Cultural Property. The view looking up through the autumn leaves is a must.
- Isobe Onsen — a strong saline hot spring and the birthplace of the ♨ symbol, set along the quiet Usui River.
- Toge no Kamameshi — Yokokawa's famous pot-cooked rice bento, enjoyed at its birthplace: a rider's classic lunch.
Riding tips
The pass has many curves and uneven surfaces, so keep a comfortable pace. Days are short in autumn, so plan to finish descending the pass while it's still light.
- 1START
Tashilog Garage
Start point. Depart Hachioji and head toward Annaka, Gunma via the Ken-O and Kan-Etsu expressways.
TIPSPack warm gear for chilly autumn mornings and evenings, and aim for an early start.
- 2FOOD~50 min
Oginoya Yokokawa Main Store
At the foot of Usui Pass in front of Yokokawa Station, the birthplace of the famous Toge no Kamameshi. A great lunch stop.
HISTORYOginoya was founded in 1885. Its Toge no Kamameshi, a pot-cooked rice bento served in a Mashiko-ware clay pot, debuted in 1958 and is famous nationwide.
TIPSTry the Toge no Kamameshi set (with miso soup and a mochi). The dish alone is takeout only. Reportedly closed Tuesdays — please confirm hours before visiting.
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Image - 3SPOT~40 min
Usui Pass Railway Heritage Park
A railway theme park next to Yokokawa Station, exhibiting rolling stock from the old Shin-etsu Main Line.
HISTORYThe park preserves the history of the old Shin-etsu Main Line, which crossed Usui Pass using the Abt rack system. It displays locomotives that worked the steep Yokokawa–Karuizawa section.
TIPSA good place to learn the pass's railway history. Easy to park a motorcycle, and even a short visit is worthwhile.
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Photo: くろふね / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 3.0 - 4VIEW~40 min
Megane Bridge (Usui Third Bridge)
A massive brick arch bridge along the old Usui Pass road (former Route 18).
HISTORYCompleted in 1893, this four-arch brick bridge stands about 31 m high and 91 m long — one of Japan's largest. Designated an Important Cultural Property, its former railway bed is now the 'Apt no Michi' walking path, and you can walk across the top.
TIPSFree parking (about 26 spaces). Looking up at the bridge framed by autumn leaves is spectacular. Peak foliage is usually early to mid-November.
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Photo: nimame / Wikimedia Commons / CC BY 2.0 - 5SPOT~25 min
Sakamoto-juku Post Town
The remains of a Nakasendo post town that served travelers about to cross Usui Pass.
HISTORYSakamoto-juku flourished as the post town before travelers tackled the difficult Usui Pass. Its long, narrow plots and restored water channels still convey the old atmosphere.
TIPSRide slowly along the old road to soak up the post-town feel. Well suited to a brief stop.
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Photo: Keisai Eisen / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain - 6ONSEN~75 min
Isobe Onsen Megumi-no-Yu
A municipal day-use hot-spring facility along the Usui River — perfect for washing away the day's fatigue.
HISTORYIsobe Onsen is the birthplace of Japan's oldest hot-spring symbol (♨), traced to a 1661 boundary-dispute map that depicted the symbol. The water is a strong saline spring, and the facility's signature sand-salt bath is a highlight.
TIPSFeatures a large bath, open-air bath, sauna, and its famous sand-salt bath. Located by Aisai Bridge, about a 7-minute walk from Isobe Station. Confirm hours and closing days in advance.
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Photo: Abasaa / Wikimedia Commons / Public domain - 7SPOT~20 min
Isobe Shihi Park (Onsen Symbol Monument)
A riverside park along the Usui River, home to the monument marking Japan's oldest hot-spring symbol.
HISTORYThe park holds a stone monument inscribed as the 'oldest hot-spring symbol in Japan,' marking Isobe as the symbol's birthplace. Beloved by writers and poets, the area is dotted with literary monuments.
TIPSRight by the hot spring and ideal for a photo. Foot baths and Isobe senbei (cracker) shops are scattered around the onsen district.
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Image - 8GOAL
Tashilog Garage
Return. Head back to Hachioji via the Joshin-etsu, Kan-Etsu, and Ken-O expressways from Matsuida-Myogi IC.
TIPSIn the shorter-daylight season, descend the pass before dark and allow ample time on the expressway home.